Patagonian Maras ( also commonly called Patagonian Cavies ) are the 4th largest rodents in the world behind the Capybara, Beaver, and Porcupine. They can grow up to 35 pounds but the average size is between 15 to 25 pounds. ( mine are all between 15-20lbs ) In the wild Maras are monogamous and mate for life. Wild Maras typically only have one litter per year. In captivity Maras seem to be monogamous only if there are enough males present and can breed two to three times a year. 1 to 3 babies are born at a time. Gestation is around 90 days. The Patagonian Mara is found only in Argentina. They are considered a near threatened species. They have been greatly affected by hunting and habitat alteration. In some areas of Argentina where they used to thrive they can no longer be found.
There is also the Chacoan Mara which looks the same only smaller. It can be found in Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia. Chacoan Maras are seldom seen as pets.
MARAS AS PETS
Maras make for fascinating and unique pets- for some people. They, nor any pet, be it a cat, dog or exotic will suit everyone out there. Much research should be done before obtaining any pet, but especially an uncommon pet like a Mara, to ensure that you have a full understanding of the commitment you are getting into.
Compared to some of the more exotic/uncommon pets available, Maras are very easy keepers.
They are primarily diurnal which I find great. Many other exotic type pets such as Sugar Gliders and Hedgehogs are nocturnal which can make it harder to fully enjoy them.
Maras bond to their humans if bottle raised and will seek out affection. They aren't animal Einsteins but they also arent dumb. They can be taught tricks and are food/treat motivated. It can come as a surprise to many people that bottle raised Maras do not tend to be flighty and timid. They handle new sights, sounds and situations in stride and are not easily startled.
Maras are inexpensive and easy to feed. The largest part of their diet is timothy/grass hay and mare ration. They can be fed rabbit pellets if they are getting a small amount of fresh fruit on a semi regular basis or you need to dust their food with ascorbic acid. I find dusting their food to be a better option because fruit is high in sugars and there is some thought that too much fruit all the time can be bad for them. They can also be fed guinea pig pellets for the Vitamin C content. Leaf lettuce ( not iceburg lettuce ) and vegetables are also great. I feed large amounts of fresh green grass with clover and a small amount of alfalfa in the summer months. ( make sure there are no sprays/chemicals on any grass you feed )
Once full grown they can be acclimatized to live fully outdoors as long as they have access to shade in the heat and shelter that is heated if it gets too cold. Maras do not mind cool weather. If properly acclimatized and with a good draft free shelter adult Maras can be safely kept outdoors with no added heat until about -10 celsius. Mine stay out in the cold by choice even when it is -20. I rarely see them enter their heated shelter. In winter, warmth can be provided in the form of heating pads like the kind found at Princess Auto and/or a heat lamp or radiant heater. They are inexpensive to operate and quite safe if used properly. There are many other heat options as well.
Although some people do have Maras as indoor pets I do not recommend this once they have reached adulthood. Being rodents, they may chew things although they really don't seem to chew too much. They can be litter/paper trained but you should never expect perfection. There WILL be accidents. Some Maras will have daily mistakes while others are much, much better. There is no way of knowing how your Mara will behave before you get it. Their droppings are like mouse droppings only bigger. They are firm and easy to clean up unless your Mara has an upset tummy. Their urine is very easy to clean up, ( it wipes up no problem) especially compared to rabbit urine which sticks like glue if allowed to dry. Some people claim that Maras are odorless. While the actual animal does not really smell that much, if caged inside you will probably notice a slight smell. It is not that bad and the level of smell will of course depend on how often you clean the cage and what you are feeding. They do not smell nearly as much as a something like a ferret and I personally do not find the smell, if any, very offensive.
I have read in several places that they never, ever - even under the most stressful situation - bite. This is 'almost' true. Any animal with teeth has the ability to bite. Bottle raised Maras are not likely to bite you even if scared or even if you grab them or corner them but I do know of a mother raised Mara that bit it's keeper. They really have to be stressed to the max before they will resort to biting. If you have bare feet or stick a finger out to a hungry baby bottle raised Mara it will very likely give you a 'friendly nibble'. These little nibbles can sometimes kind of hurt. Once they figure out that you are not something to eat they will stop the nibbling but sometimes this can take awhile since bottle raised babies will associate people with food. Most Maras will never bite in defense even when threatened but it is foolish to think that they can't- they can- but thankfully most choose not to.
They can be leash and harness trained and if started from a baby it will be much easier. I find that when they hear the little bell on their harness they will run over to get their harness on. Bottle raised babies will also naturally want to stick close to you. They know you will protect them and it is quite easy to get them to follow your every move and take them for a walk. Make sure that when you start harness and leash training - as soon as you put the harness on you need to take them outside or to a new environment to explore. This helps them to forget about the harness and to associate it as a type of treat. If you can find a light chain leash it will be optimum. They can chew through a material lead in seconds so if you use one it requires constant vigilance on your part. Usually they are so enthralled with going for a walk they wont bother trying to chew the leash but my feelings are that it's better safe than sorry. Unlike rabbits who will chew through a harness if you leave it on them, you can leave a harness on a Mara all the time and they wont bother trying to get it off. However, there are certain precautions you need to take if you do this to make sure that your Mara will not get hung up on anything. You also need to keep check that the harness is not getting too tight or irritating your Mara.
Maras are fast and can turn on a dime. If they get away and do not want to be caught it will be very hard if not impossible to catch them. Also never take them out where they could get attacked by a dog. Lets face it- many people don't walk their dog on a leash and almost every dog, no matter how well trained, will find a scared, jumping and running Mara that is flailing on its lead irresistible to 'play' with.
If you are interested in owning a Mara feel free to contact me to ask any questions and to be put on a waiting list. I will also ask questions of you- not to be nosey but to make sure you really want a Mara. The last thing any owner of exotic or less common pets needs is for people to dump them at a shelter when they discover the animal is not what they expected. Shelters do not have the knowledge to care for animals like Maras and they should not be a dumping ground for them. I ALWAYS TAKE BACK WHAT I BREED.
I am here to answer questions and help you to learn and decide if a Mara is right for you. So ask away with any questions you may have. As stated, Maras are pretty easy to own but they do have a couple 'bad' habits that other breeders may neglect to mention.
I have listed these along with some interesting info about Maras below:
-Chewing
- They like to dig and if indoors they may try to dig in your carpet, linoleum or hardwood- no matter the surface they will probably try. For whatever reason they seem to like trying to dig indoors much more than outside in the dirt where they should be digging. Their nails are quite blunt and it would be unusual for them to actually do any damage to flooring.
- They can jump very far ( usually diagonally not vertically ). A large metal/wire dog run of a minimum 5ft in height works great to keep them in as long as they get plenty of attention from you and taken for walks/ runs on a regular basis.
-They can run up to 45km/hr for 1000 meters
- Males and females make equally good pets
- They don't make any real loud noises but they do make a variety of low chirps and whistles. They grunt like a pig, purr like a cat and make some sounds that are exactly the same as a guinea pig.
-In captivity Mara's can live up to 14 years
-There is no need to get your Mara any vaccinations. However, if you do for whatever reason, make absolute sure that is is a killed vaccine and not a live vaccine.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Patagonian Maras are VERY hard to find in Canada. I am working hard to obtain good quality, healthy and unrelated animals from within Canada as well as importing some from the USA.
My babies are bottle raised and are typically ready to leave to their new home at 3 weeks of age.
Each baby will come with a bottle/nipple and a bag of food, detailed instructions on how to care for your baby and lifelong breeder support.
--Shipping is possible to most major Canadian cities. Please ask for further info and pricing. --
To the best of my knowledge Maras are not restricted anywhere in Canada except Alberta. Most places look at the Mara just like a rabbit or guinea pig.
**It is up to the buyer to research both their Provincial as well as Municipal by-laws for any restrictions**
There is also the Chacoan Mara which looks the same only smaller. It can be found in Argentina, Paraguay and Bolivia. Chacoan Maras are seldom seen as pets.
MARAS AS PETS
Maras make for fascinating and unique pets- for some people. They, nor any pet, be it a cat, dog or exotic will suit everyone out there. Much research should be done before obtaining any pet, but especially an uncommon pet like a Mara, to ensure that you have a full understanding of the commitment you are getting into.
Compared to some of the more exotic/uncommon pets available, Maras are very easy keepers.
They are primarily diurnal which I find great. Many other exotic type pets such as Sugar Gliders and Hedgehogs are nocturnal which can make it harder to fully enjoy them.
Maras bond to their humans if bottle raised and will seek out affection. They aren't animal Einsteins but they also arent dumb. They can be taught tricks and are food/treat motivated. It can come as a surprise to many people that bottle raised Maras do not tend to be flighty and timid. They handle new sights, sounds and situations in stride and are not easily startled.
Maras are inexpensive and easy to feed. The largest part of their diet is timothy/grass hay and mare ration. They can be fed rabbit pellets if they are getting a small amount of fresh fruit on a semi regular basis or you need to dust their food with ascorbic acid. I find dusting their food to be a better option because fruit is high in sugars and there is some thought that too much fruit all the time can be bad for them. They can also be fed guinea pig pellets for the Vitamin C content. Leaf lettuce ( not iceburg lettuce ) and vegetables are also great. I feed large amounts of fresh green grass with clover and a small amount of alfalfa in the summer months. ( make sure there are no sprays/chemicals on any grass you feed )
Once full grown they can be acclimatized to live fully outdoors as long as they have access to shade in the heat and shelter that is heated if it gets too cold. Maras do not mind cool weather. If properly acclimatized and with a good draft free shelter adult Maras can be safely kept outdoors with no added heat until about -10 celsius. Mine stay out in the cold by choice even when it is -20. I rarely see them enter their heated shelter. In winter, warmth can be provided in the form of heating pads like the kind found at Princess Auto and/or a heat lamp or radiant heater. They are inexpensive to operate and quite safe if used properly. There are many other heat options as well.
Although some people do have Maras as indoor pets I do not recommend this once they have reached adulthood. Being rodents, they may chew things although they really don't seem to chew too much. They can be litter/paper trained but you should never expect perfection. There WILL be accidents. Some Maras will have daily mistakes while others are much, much better. There is no way of knowing how your Mara will behave before you get it. Their droppings are like mouse droppings only bigger. They are firm and easy to clean up unless your Mara has an upset tummy. Their urine is very easy to clean up, ( it wipes up no problem) especially compared to rabbit urine which sticks like glue if allowed to dry. Some people claim that Maras are odorless. While the actual animal does not really smell that much, if caged inside you will probably notice a slight smell. It is not that bad and the level of smell will of course depend on how often you clean the cage and what you are feeding. They do not smell nearly as much as a something like a ferret and I personally do not find the smell, if any, very offensive.
I have read in several places that they never, ever - even under the most stressful situation - bite. This is 'almost' true. Any animal with teeth has the ability to bite. Bottle raised Maras are not likely to bite you even if scared or even if you grab them or corner them but I do know of a mother raised Mara that bit it's keeper. They really have to be stressed to the max before they will resort to biting. If you have bare feet or stick a finger out to a hungry baby bottle raised Mara it will very likely give you a 'friendly nibble'. These little nibbles can sometimes kind of hurt. Once they figure out that you are not something to eat they will stop the nibbling but sometimes this can take awhile since bottle raised babies will associate people with food. Most Maras will never bite in defense even when threatened but it is foolish to think that they can't- they can- but thankfully most choose not to.
They can be leash and harness trained and if started from a baby it will be much easier. I find that when they hear the little bell on their harness they will run over to get their harness on. Bottle raised babies will also naturally want to stick close to you. They know you will protect them and it is quite easy to get them to follow your every move and take them for a walk. Make sure that when you start harness and leash training - as soon as you put the harness on you need to take them outside or to a new environment to explore. This helps them to forget about the harness and to associate it as a type of treat. If you can find a light chain leash it will be optimum. They can chew through a material lead in seconds so if you use one it requires constant vigilance on your part. Usually they are so enthralled with going for a walk they wont bother trying to chew the leash but my feelings are that it's better safe than sorry. Unlike rabbits who will chew through a harness if you leave it on them, you can leave a harness on a Mara all the time and they wont bother trying to get it off. However, there are certain precautions you need to take if you do this to make sure that your Mara will not get hung up on anything. You also need to keep check that the harness is not getting too tight or irritating your Mara.
Maras are fast and can turn on a dime. If they get away and do not want to be caught it will be very hard if not impossible to catch them. Also never take them out where they could get attacked by a dog. Lets face it- many people don't walk their dog on a leash and almost every dog, no matter how well trained, will find a scared, jumping and running Mara that is flailing on its lead irresistible to 'play' with.
If you are interested in owning a Mara feel free to contact me to ask any questions and to be put on a waiting list. I will also ask questions of you- not to be nosey but to make sure you really want a Mara. The last thing any owner of exotic or less common pets needs is for people to dump them at a shelter when they discover the animal is not what they expected. Shelters do not have the knowledge to care for animals like Maras and they should not be a dumping ground for them. I ALWAYS TAKE BACK WHAT I BREED.
I am here to answer questions and help you to learn and decide if a Mara is right for you. So ask away with any questions you may have. As stated, Maras are pretty easy to own but they do have a couple 'bad' habits that other breeders may neglect to mention.
I have listed these along with some interesting info about Maras below:
-Chewing
- They like to dig and if indoors they may try to dig in your carpet, linoleum or hardwood- no matter the surface they will probably try. For whatever reason they seem to like trying to dig indoors much more than outside in the dirt where they should be digging. Their nails are quite blunt and it would be unusual for them to actually do any damage to flooring.
- They can jump very far ( usually diagonally not vertically ). A large metal/wire dog run of a minimum 5ft in height works great to keep them in as long as they get plenty of attention from you and taken for walks/ runs on a regular basis.
-They can run up to 45km/hr for 1000 meters
- Males and females make equally good pets
- They don't make any real loud noises but they do make a variety of low chirps and whistles. They grunt like a pig, purr like a cat and make some sounds that are exactly the same as a guinea pig.
-In captivity Mara's can live up to 14 years
-There is no need to get your Mara any vaccinations. However, if you do for whatever reason, make absolute sure that is is a killed vaccine and not a live vaccine.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Patagonian Maras are VERY hard to find in Canada. I am working hard to obtain good quality, healthy and unrelated animals from within Canada as well as importing some from the USA.
My babies are bottle raised and are typically ready to leave to their new home at 3 weeks of age.
Each baby will come with a bottle/nipple and a bag of food, detailed instructions on how to care for your baby and lifelong breeder support.
--Shipping is possible to most major Canadian cities. Please ask for further info and pricing. --
To the best of my knowledge Maras are not restricted anywhere in Canada except Alberta. Most places look at the Mara just like a rabbit or guinea pig.
**It is up to the buyer to research both their Provincial as well as Municipal by-laws for any restrictions**
|
|
SEXING MARAS:
Very young Patagonian Maras look very similar but it is quite easy to tell male from female if you know how.
Below is a young male: Note that there is much more space between the anus and the genitalia than on the female. If gentle pressure is applied on the belly the penis is exposed.
Very young Patagonian Maras look very similar but it is quite easy to tell male from female if you know how.
Below is a young male: Note that there is much more space between the anus and the genitalia than on the female. If gentle pressure is applied on the belly the penis is exposed.
|
|
Below is a young female: Note that the space between the anus and the genitalia is very minimal. In fact it is hard to even see the anus. If gentle pressure is applied to the belly the vagina lifts up and the anus is more visible.
|
|
Sexing mature Maras is much easier. The penis in mature males can be easily seen and points backwards when not erect.
KEEPING MARA TEETH TRIM AND HEALTHY:
KEEPING MARA TEETH TRIM AND HEALTHY:
Like all rodents, Mara teeth continuously grow throughout their lives. It is important to provide your Mara with something it can use to grind down it's teeth. I like to provide apple branches. I also make sure there are some large stones in my Mara enclosure. All of my Mara's will knaw on the stones, seemingly with the direct intention of keeping their teeth trim. If your Mara does not seem interested in nibbling on a stone you can entice it by soaking a lava rock in some apple juice and giving it as a treat.
VITAMIN C:
The easiest way to provide your Mara with Vitamin C is to dust it's food with some ascorbic acid. This does not need to be done daily, especially if your Mara is eating lots of fresh grass ( in the wild Maras get the Vit C they need from eating grass )
Fruit can be a good source of Vit C and Maras should have a small amount of fruit but giving it to them daily is not a good idea. Fruit is full of sugar and it is thought to possibly be bad for Mara health if they receive frequent high amounts of it.
You can feed Guinea Pig pellets which are Vit C fortified but Maras are not particularly fussy about them. Also keep in mind that once the package of guinea pig pellets is opened the Vitamins do start to degrade. Vit C and any pellets should be stored in a cool, dry and dark place to maintain Vit C potency.
VITAMIN C:
The easiest way to provide your Mara with Vitamin C is to dust it's food with some ascorbic acid. This does not need to be done daily, especially if your Mara is eating lots of fresh grass ( in the wild Maras get the Vit C they need from eating grass )
Fruit can be a good source of Vit C and Maras should have a small amount of fruit but giving it to them daily is not a good idea. Fruit is full of sugar and it is thought to possibly be bad for Mara health if they receive frequent high amounts of it.
You can feed Guinea Pig pellets which are Vit C fortified but Maras are not particularly fussy about them. Also keep in mind that once the package of guinea pig pellets is opened the Vitamins do start to degrade. Vit C and any pellets should be stored in a cool, dry and dark place to maintain Vit C potency.
MARA PREGNANCY:
It can be hard to determine if your Mara is pregnant. It is rare to witness a mating and pregnant Maras often don't look pregnant to the casual on-looker, even when they are days away from birthing. The best way to tell is when your Mara is in a sitting position. This will make her 'swelly belly' more obvious. If you really know your Mara you may be able to tell 3-4 weeks prior to delivery that she is expecting, possibly earlier depending on the number of babies she is carrying. Her belly will be extra hard to the touch and at about 1 week prior to delivery you should be able to see the baby(ies) moving inside of her if you keep close watch.
I have found Mara's to give little, if any, warning as to when they are going into labor. They don't seem to have any loss of appetite or act any differently. They will birth any time of the day or night. The best cue I have found with my group is that up to a day prior to birth the other Maras in her group will show a lot of interest in sniffing the expecting female's genetalia and even nudging the sides of her belly. It is like they can sense a change in her that a person cannot. I have not detected any change in the female's vulva nor any discharge prior to birthing. And after having the baby she will appear totally normal as well. Her vulva still will hardly look any different and there is usually no blood or discharge like there is with many other animals. It is very important to check on your pregant female daily when she is getting close to birthing so you can look for and find the baby once delivered and ensure it is ok as well as making sure the mom is ok. As with any delivery, trouble can happen. A baby may be too big, it may present the wrong way, or it may be dead and so on and so on. However, most pregnancies and deliveries happen without any issues.
It can be hard to determine if your Mara is pregnant. It is rare to witness a mating and pregnant Maras often don't look pregnant to the casual on-looker, even when they are days away from birthing. The best way to tell is when your Mara is in a sitting position. This will make her 'swelly belly' more obvious. If you really know your Mara you may be able to tell 3-4 weeks prior to delivery that she is expecting, possibly earlier depending on the number of babies she is carrying. Her belly will be extra hard to the touch and at about 1 week prior to delivery you should be able to see the baby(ies) moving inside of her if you keep close watch.
I have found Mara's to give little, if any, warning as to when they are going into labor. They don't seem to have any loss of appetite or act any differently. They will birth any time of the day or night. The best cue I have found with my group is that up to a day prior to birth the other Maras in her group will show a lot of interest in sniffing the expecting female's genetalia and even nudging the sides of her belly. It is like they can sense a change in her that a person cannot. I have not detected any change in the female's vulva nor any discharge prior to birthing. And after having the baby she will appear totally normal as well. Her vulva still will hardly look any different and there is usually no blood or discharge like there is with many other animals. It is very important to check on your pregant female daily when she is getting close to birthing so you can look for and find the baby once delivered and ensure it is ok as well as making sure the mom is ok. As with any delivery, trouble can happen. A baby may be too big, it may present the wrong way, or it may be dead and so on and so on. However, most pregnancies and deliveries happen without any issues.
Below are photos of a Mara's teat. It is long and thin and similar to a marsupial nipple.
|
|
This pregnant Mara's belly is much more obvious when she is sitting than when she is standing. She is just a couple days away from birthing in this photo.
|
Which one is pregnant? It is hard to tell from this view! The one on the right is a pregnant female about 1 week from birthing.
|
The Mara in the above photos gave birth to a single, healthy baby.
|
|
Below is a video of one of my females giving birth:
